Phthalates in Skincare: What They Are, Why They’re Used, and Why They’re Controversial
By:
bryan choong
On
16/11/2024Reading time:
0 min
Summary:
Phthalates are a group of synthetic chemicals commonly used in various industries, including cosmetics and skincare, due to their versatility. They’re often added to products to enhance flexibility, stability, and fragrance longevity. However, in recent years, phthalates have become controversial, with some studies suggesting they may disrupt hormone function and potentially pose health risks. Here’s a closer look at what phthalates are, why they’re used, and why they’ve become a point of concern in skincare.
What Are Phthalates?
Phthalates (pronounced THA-lates) are a class of chemical compounds derived from phthalic acid. They are mainly used as plasticizers to make plastics like polyvinyl chloride (PVC) flexible and durable, but they’re also widely utilized in cosmetics, skincare, and personal care products (Meeker et al., 2009). In skincare, the most commonly used phthalates include diethyl phthalate (DEP) and dibutyl phthalate (DBP), although DEP is more common as DBP use has declined due to regulatory restrictions.
Why Are Phthalates Used in Skincare?
Phthalates are valued in skincare and cosmetics for several reasons:
Fragrance Stabilization: Phthalates, especially DEP, are commonly used as solvents and stabilizers in fragrances. They help scents last longer on the skin and prevent fragrances from evaporating too quickly.
Texture Enhancement: Phthalates can improve the spreadability and texture of products, making them feel smoother and easier to apply.
Ingredient Solubility: Phthalates help dissolve certain ingredients that are otherwise difficult to incorporate into a formula, improving overall product stability (Schettler, 2006).
While these functions are beneficial from a formulation perspective, their widespread use has raised concerns regarding potential health risks, particularly in products that stay on the skin or are absorbed over time.
The Pros and Cons of Phthalates in Skincare
Pros:
Improved Product Stability: Phthalates help stabilize formulations, ensuring that products perform consistently over time.
Enhanced Fragrance Longevity: They prevent fragrances from evaporating quickly, allowing scents to last longer on the skin.
Smooth Texture and Spreadability: Phthalates can improve the feel and spread of products, creating a more pleasant application experience.
Cons:
Potential Hormone Disruption: Some phthalates, like DBP, have been shown to interfere with hormone functions, specifically by mimicking estrogen. This has led to concerns about reproductive health effects, particularly with long-term exposure (Swan et al., 2005).
Allergen Potential: Phthalates can sometimes cause skin reactions, especially in individuals with sensitive skin.
Environmental Concerns: Phthalates are not easily biodegradable, and their widespread use contributes to environmental pollution. Phthalate compounds can accumulate in waterways, posing risks to wildlife and aquatic ecosystems (Halden, 2010).
Why Are Phthalates Controversial?
Potential Endocrine Disruption: The primary concern around phthalates is their potential to act as endocrine disruptors. Research suggests that phthalates can interfere with hormone production, potentially leading to reproductive and developmental issues, particularly in vulnerable populations like pregnant women and infants (Swan et al., 2005).
Regulatory Bans and Restrictions: Due to health concerns, several countries and regulatory agencies have imposed restrictions on certain phthalates. For example, the European Union has banned DBP and other high-risk phthalates from cosmetics due to their potential impact on reproductive health.
Hidden Ingredients in “Fragrance”: Phthalates are often not explicitly listed on ingredient labels because they can be included as part of “fragrance” or “parfum,” which is considered proprietary information by manufacturers. This lack of transparency has led to consumer distrust, as people become more aware of the potential health implications of phthalates and prefer full disclosure of ingredients (Schettler, 2006).
Why Do Some Consumers Avoid Phthalates?
With increased awareness of clean beauty and safe ingredients, many consumers choose to avoid phthalates for several reasons:
Health and Safety Concerns: Given the studies linking certain phthalates to hormone disruption, reproductive issues, and even potential links to certain cancers, health-conscious consumers are actively seeking products labeled as “phthalate-free.”
Environmental Awareness: Consumers concerned about environmental impact often choose phthalate-free products. Phthalates are not readily biodegradable, meaning they persist in the environment and may affect ecosystems (Halden, 2010).
Preference for Transparency: With the “fragrance loophole” in ingredient labeling, consumers may distrust products that contain undisclosed ingredients, preferring brands that explicitly label all components.
Are Phthalates Safe?
The U.S. Food and Drug Administration (FDA) has stated that phthalates like DEP are safe for use in cosmetics at the concentrations typically used. However, due to the potential risks associated with other phthalates, many regulatory agencies, including the European Chemicals Agency (ECHA), have restricted or banned certain types in cosmetics. Consumer demand has also driven many companies to develop phthalate-free formulations, especially in response to concerns from the clean beauty community.
Conclusion: Should You Avoid Phthalates in Skincare?
Phthalates remain a divisive topic in skincare, with some users opting to avoid them due to health and environmental concerns. While they offer practical benefits in product formulation, research on their potential hormone-disrupting effects has led many consumers to choose phthalate-free products, especially if they are health-conscious or prioritizing “clean” beauty. As with any ingredient, the choice to use or avoid phthalates is personal, influenced by individual health considerations, environmental values, and skincare preferences.
References
FDA. (2020). Phthalates in cosmetics. U.S. Food and Drug Administration. Retrieved from FDA website
Halden, R. U. (2010). Plastics and health risks. Annual Review of Public Health, 31, 179-194.
Meeker, J. D., Sathyanarayana, S., & Swan, S. H. (2009). Phthalates and other additives in plastics: Human exposure and associated health outcomes. Philosophical Transactions of the Royal Society B: Biological Sciences, 364(1526), 2097-2113.
Schettler, T. (2006). Human exposure to phthalates via consumer products. International Journal of Andrology, 29(1), 134-139.
Swan, S. H., et al. (2005). Decrease in anogenital distance among male infants with prenatal phthalate exposure. Environmental Health Perspectives, 113(8), 1056-1061.
Subscribe form
This is where you want visitors to leave their email addresses so you can send them marketing info and targeted deals. To convince people to subscribe to your newsletter, try offering them something valuable that aligns with your business. This could be a special offer or early access to new products.