Ethoxylates in Skincare: What They Are, How They’re Used, and Why They’re Controversial
By:
bryan choong
On
16/11/2024Reading time:
0 min
Summary:
Ethoxylates are a group of compounds widely used in skincare and personal care products, commonly found in surfactants, emulsifiers, and solubilizers. Known for their ability to enhance texture, stability, and cleansing performance, ethoxylates help various ingredients blend smoothly and provide a satisfying feel. However, some ethoxylates are controversial due to potential contamination with harmful by-products. In this article, we’ll explore what ethoxylates are, their role in skincare, the pros and cons of using them, and why certain consumers prefer to avoid them.
What Are Ethoxylates?
Ethoxylates are produced through a process called ethoxylation, in which ethylene oxide—a chemical compound—is added to fatty acids or alcohols. This process creates molecules with both hydrophilic (water-loving) and hydrophobic (oil-loving) properties, allowing ethoxylates to act as surfactants, emulsifiers, or solubilizers. Ethoxylates are commonly found in a variety of skincare products such as cleansers, lotions, and creams (Reed et al., 2009).
Common ethoxylated ingredients include sodium laureth sulfate, PEG (polyethylene glycol) compounds, PPG (polypropylene glycol) compounds, and ceteareth-20. These ingredients improve product performance by helping to mix oil and water, enhancing texture, and improving foaming and cleansing properties (Tadros, 2010).
Why Are Ethoxylates Used in Skincare?
Ethoxylates have several functional benefits that make them popular in skincare formulations:
Emulsification: Ethoxylates allow water and oil to blend, stabilizing formulations and ensuring that products like creams and lotions stay mixed.
Cleansing Power: Many ethoxylates act as surfactants, helping to remove dirt, oil, and impurities from the skin without leaving residues.
Texture and Feel: Ethoxylates improve the texture and feel of products, making them smoother, more spreadable, and often easier to rinse off (Pinnell et al., 2003).
Compatibility with Ingredients: They are compatible with a wide range of ingredients, enabling formulators to create complex products that perform well and remain stable over time.
The Pros and Cons of Ethoxylates in Skincare
Pros:
Improved Product Performance: Ethoxylates allow products to mix thoroughly and deliver consistent performance.
Cleansing Efficiency: Ethoxylated surfactants are highly effective at removing dirt and oil, providing deep cleansing without a heavy residue.
Enhanced Texture: Ethoxylates help create a smooth, pleasant texture, which enhances the sensory experience of using the product.
Cost-Effectiveness: Ethoxylates are often economical, making them a practical choice for large-scale skincare production (Peters, 2006).
Cons:
Potential Contamination with 1,4-Dioxane: A significant concern with ethoxylates is the potential contamination with 1,4-dioxane, a by-product of the ethoxylation process. 1,4-dioxane is a known carcinogen and can be harmful if absorbed in high amounts. While manufacturers are encouraged to remove it through a process called vacuum stripping, not all products undergo thorough purification, which poses risks (Fiume et al., 2001).
Skin Sensitivity: Some ethoxylated ingredients, like sodium laureth sulfate, can be irritating to sensitive or dry skin, causing dryness, itching, or redness.
Environmental Concerns: Ethoxylates can be difficult to break down and may accumulate in the environment. Their widespread use has raised concerns about their impact on aquatic life and ecosystems (Wang et al., 2010).
Why Do Some Consumers Avoid Ethoxylates?
Concerns About 1,4-Dioxane: The main reason consumers avoid ethoxylates is due to the potential presence of 1,4-dioxane, a contaminant formed during the ethoxylation process. 1,4-dioxane has been linked to liver and kidney toxicity and is classified as a probable human carcinogen by the U.S. Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) (EPA, 2013). Although manufacturers often purify products to remove 1,4-dioxane, concerns about contamination persist, especially in products that are not explicitly labeled as free from this impurity.
Preference for “Clean Beauty”: As clean beauty continues to grow, more consumers are actively avoiding synthetic ingredients, including ethoxylates, which are typically derived from petroleum-based compounds. Many consumers seek “green” alternatives, preferring naturally derived ingredients with lower environmental and health risks (Clarke et al., 2018).
Potential for Skin Irritation: For individuals with sensitive skin, ethoxylates can sometimes be too harsh, especially in cleansers. Sodium laureth sulfate, for example, can strip natural oils from the skin, leaving it dry and prone to irritation.
The Controversy: Are Ethoxylates Safe?
The safety of ethoxylates is generally recognized by regulatory bodies, as long as products are formulated and purified correctly. The Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) has assessed the safety of many ethoxylated ingredients, deeming them safe for use in cosmetics when 1,4-dioxane is properly removed (Fiume et al., 2001). Additionally, the U.S. Food and Drug Administration (FDA) does not currently restrict the use of ethoxylates, but they recommend that companies follow good manufacturing practices to minimize the presence of contaminants.
For consumers concerned about 1,4-dioxane, many brands now offer products labeled as “1,4-dioxane-free” or “ethoxylate-free,” catering to those who prefer to avoid any risk of exposure to potential contaminants.
Conclusion: Should You Avoid Ethoxylates?
Ethoxylates play a valuable role in skincare formulations, enhancing product stability, texture, and cleansing power. While concerns about 1,4-dioxane contamination have led some consumers to seek alternatives, many ethoxylated products are safe and effective when properly purified. For consumers with sensitive skin or those following a clean beauty philosophy, ethoxylate-free products offer a viable alternative. Ultimately, the decision to use or avoid ethoxylates depends on your personal skincare needs and preferences.
References
Clarke, M. S., Stapleton, P. J., & Warner, R. (2018). A global review of palm oil-related deforestation and sustainability. Journal of Environmental Management, 227, 10-20.
EPA. (2013). Technical Fact Sheet – 1,4-Dioxane. United States Environmental Protection Agency.
Fiume, M. Z., Bergfeld, W. F., Belsito, D. V., Hill, R. A., Klaassen, C. D., Liebler, D. C., Marks, J. G., Shank, R. C., Slaga, T. J., & Snyder, P. W. (2001). Safety assessment of polyethylene glycols (PEGs) and PEG-derived cosmetic ingredients. International Journal of Toxicology, 20(2_suppl), 1-35.
Peters, A. (2006). Surfactants in cosmetics: A practical guide. Journal of Cosmetic Science, 55(3), 199-206.
Pinnell, S. R., et al. (2003). Polyethylene glycol and its role in dermatologic formulation. Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, 2(2), 89-92.
Reed, B. M., et al. (2009). The chemistry of ethoxylates in cosmetics. Cosmetic & Toiletry, 125(6), 49-54.
SCCS. (2010). Opinion on 1,4-dioxane in cosmetic products. Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety.
Tadros, T. F. (2010). Applied surfactants: Principles and applications. Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, 3(4), 253-262.
Wang, D. G., Norwood, W., Alaee, M., Byer, J. D., & Brimble, S. (2010). Review of the environmental fate and effects of cyclic volatile methylsiloxanes. Chemosphere, 79(6), 833-839.
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